In my latest birding adventure, I ventured to the hidden gem of Malawi—Likoma Island. The journey itself was as exciting as the destination, filled with incredible landscapes, local culture, and, of course, birdlife. From Lilongwe to the sandy shores of Lake Malawi, here's how it all unfolded. Watch the video of my adventure below!
Starting the Journey in Lilongwe
At the time, I was living in Lilongwe, so our group of friends decided to meet early in the morning at the Sunbird Capital Hotel. The morning was lively, filled with chatter, laughter, and, of course, a few beers to kick off the adventure. It was the perfect way to start what would be an unforgettable trip.
After spending time catching up and sharing stories, we packed up and made our way out of the city by bus, headed towards our next stop—Senga Bay, where we would board the legendary Ilala Ferry.
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Waiting for the Ilala Ferry at Senga Bay
At Senga Bay, we had some time to relax, so we settled down with another cold beer, enjoying the beautiful scenery around us. Lake Malawi stretched out before us, its waters calm and inviting, as we eagerly awaited the arrival of the Ilala Ferry that would take us to Likoma Island.
After the Ilala ferry arrived at Senga Bay, the boatmen prepared their old wooden boats, weathered by the lake's waves and full of character. We all boarded, alongside Malawians carrying kitundu (luggage), and sped off toward the Ilala ferry. As we approached, we saw many curious faces watching us draw closer. We were greeted by the ticket man, and once aboard, it was clear that the Ilala is steeped in history.
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The ferry has been in service since 1951, having been built in 1949. At 50 meters long and weighing 400 tonnes, it has connected villages and islands on Lake Malawi for decades. Serving both as a passenger and cargo vessel, the Ilala is one of the most important transport links for the lakeside communities. You can feel the history embedded in its old steel and the character it carries from decades of service.
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We were shown to our cabins, where we quickly dropped our bags before heading to the upper deck. The views were breathtaking, and Malawi’s unique atmosphere left us in awe, as it always does. After soaking it all in, we headed to the bar on the top deck for some well-deserved drinks before calling it a night.
A Night on the Ilala Ferry and Approaching Likoma Island
After settling into our cabins and enjoying drinks on the upper deck, the peacefulness of the night aboard the Ilala ferry was briefly interrupted. In the middle of the night, I was woken up by the bustling stop at Nkhotakota. As we docked, I could hear the sounds of people boarding the ferry, but sleep quickly took over again, and I drifted back into slumber.
Waking Up to Likoma Island
The next time I awoke, the sun was peering through the small cabin window. As I opened the door, I was surprised to find someone sleeping right outside! After gently waking the kind sir, I stepped out to the deck, only to be greeted by the magnificent sight of Likoma Island in the distance. Mozambique lay just opposite us, closer to Likoma than the Malawian mainland—what a spectacular view!
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As we neared the island, something else caught my attention: huge clouds of lake flies forming tornado-like spirals in the sky. I’d heard stories of fishermen catching these flies to eat them, as they are quite nutritious. This strange yet beautiful phenomenon added to the feeling of awe as we approached the island.
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Arrival at Likoma Island
Likoma’s shores were full of life as the community prepared for our arrival. Boats raced toward the ferry, each eager to offload goods and passengers. From the deck, I could see the skies filled with cormorants and the occasional fish eagle—a promising start to what would be an exciting birding experience.
As the boats cluttered together alongside the Ilala, we carefully balanced across them to reach our own boat. With everyone aboard, we made our way to our first stop on Likoma: Chipone Beach Resort, where we would be staying for the night.
A Stay at Chipone Beach Resort: Birding Among the Baobabs
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Upon arrival, we got off at the little rustic Chipone Beach Resort, nestled right on the stunning shores of Lake Malawi. After the long ferry journey, we were thrilled to finally make it. The Ilala ferry can sometimes be a bit draining, but we were ready to recharge.
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As soon as we settled in, I was greeted by a refreshing cold beer—exactly what was needed after the trip. It wasn’t long before I ventured out for some well-deserved birding around the resort. Chipone Beach Resort is a haven for birdlife, and I was lucky enough to spot a variety of species, including the Dark-capped Bulbul, Red-billed Firefinch, Bronze Mannikin, Pied Kingfisher, Spectacled Weaver, Eurasian Hobby, African Paradise Flycatcher, Little Bee-eater, Spotted Flycatcher, Senegal Coucal, and Reed Cormorant.
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The resort is beautifully built among majestic baobab trees, adding a truly African touch to the surroundings. One of the highlights was spotting the Eurasian Hobbies roosting in the baobabs—a perfect scene for any birder. The natural trails around the camp provided the perfect opportunity to explore the local wildlife and admire these wonderful species in their habitat.
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As for our accommodations, we didn’t have a shower, but the owner humorously pointed out, “Well, there’s a lake!” So, we bathed in the pristine waters of Lake Malawi, followed by a simple dinner before heading to bed—exhausted but content from a day filled with adventure and nature.
Exploring Likoma Island: A Visit to Andrew’s Place
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Our next destination on Likoma Island was Andrew’s Place, and you can read more about Andrew here. Andrew came to fetch us in his beautiful boat, whisking us away to his amazing spot on the island. The accommodation was stunning, and the setting was absolutely perfect for our last stop on Likoma.
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During our stay, I had the chance to do some more birding, this time around Andrew's vegetable patch. The area was a hidden gem for birders, and I was thrilled to spot species like the Village Weaver, Ring-necked Dove, Emerald Spotted Wood Dove, Yellow-billed Kite, Water Thick-knee, Common Sandpiper, Pied Crow, and the Crimson-rumped Waxbill. Interestingly, these Waxbills are only found on the islands of Lake Malawi and northward into Tanzania—a unique sighting for this area. The iconic African Fish Eagle also made an appearance, adding to the experience.
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Apart from birdwatching, Likoma is home to some of the best cichlid fish I’ve ever seen. These colorful fish, endemic to the lake, provided a different kind of “birding”—underwater birding, if you will. It was a wonderful way to wrap up our island adventure.
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Evening Under the Stars
Our last evening on Likoma was unforgettable. Andrew had arranged for a local band to play for us, and we indulged in some “liquid gold” at the bar, dancing barefoot in the sand under the stars. One of the most magical moments was looking out over the lake, where the still waters reflected the stars so perfectly that you couldn’t tell where the sky ended and the lake began. It’s no wonder they call it the “Lake of Stars.”
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Farewell to Likoma
On our final morning, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast while waiting for the speedboats coming from Nkhata Bay to pick us up. Leaving the island was bittersweet—it had been such an incredible experience. Midway through our journey, we stopped to wash off the lake flies, which we had run into several times along the way. Swimming in the middle of Lake Malawi, in a place few people ever venture, was the perfect way to cap off this once-in-a-lifetime adventure.